Today, I want to talk about a brand you won’t often see in mainstream media, and for good reason. This is a brand that chooses to take a different approach in both its craft and communication. You may have guessed it, or maybe not, but I’m talking about Zeitwinkel. Before I detail one of their models, let me introduce you to the brand.
Zeitwinkel is an independent watchmaker based in Saint-Imier, a small village in the Swiss Jura. Founded in 2006 by a group of friends passionate about watches, the brand was built on a dream to create honest, high-quality timepieces. The name “Zeitwinkel” translates to “time angle” in German, inspired by a measurement used to calculate “true local time,” reflecting the brand’s commitment to precision.
Ivica Maksimovic, Peter Nikolaus, and Albert Edelmann began their journey by developing their own in-house movement and even their own font. The design of Zeitwinkel watches came second, evolving around the movements they had created. The collection blends refined design with serious horology. Named after different “time angles” such as the 240°, 082°, 188°, and 273°, each model follows its unique path to captivate potential buyers. Now, let’s delve into the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé.
What are the features of the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé?
Case
The Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé boasts an elegantly proportioned case crafted from 1.4435 stainless steel. This alloy offers high resistance to intergranular corrosion and non-oxidizing acids, making it particularly suitable for products in constant contact with the skin. Measuring 42.5 mm in diameter and 13.8 mm thick, the case is water-resistant to 5 ATM and is both manufactured in Germany and hand-finished.
The brand has focused on achieving a polished finish combined with satin-brushed ribbons on the lugs to enhance contrast and lend a sporty touch. In terms of wrist comfort, the lugs are angled, but I found the ergonomics less ideal on my wrist, likely due to the larger diameter and relatively long lugs.
Dial
The Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé features a smoked sapphire crystal dial with a galvanically metallic coating that reveals the pre-lacquered plate of the ZW0103 caliber. This is a complex creation, requiring a twenty-step process. Due to the hardness of sapphire, indices and appliques cannot be applied conventionally. Zeitwinkel employs a lithographic electroplating technique to engrave all dial texts, hour markers, and minute indices with extreme precision.
The contrast between the smoked sapphire dial and the faceted applied indices, along with the faceted and diamond-set hands, is striking. Additionally, the edges around the power reserve indicator and small seconds subdial are sculpted and coated with ruthenium to achieve a matte effect, adding even more depth to the dial. For those who prefer a different aesthetic, a fully transparent dial option is available.
Movement
The Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé houses the ZW0103 in-house caliber, produced in small quantities and assembled by hand. This automatic movement features a semi-integrated complication for the date display. Operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), it provides a 72-hour power reserve. It also includes a Glucydur balance wheel and a robust three-quarter plate, which plays a significant role in the movement’s mechanical stability.
All plates and bridges are crafted from untreated German silver and display hand-finished Geneva stripes, perlage, and beautifully beveled edges. German silver is intentionally chosen for its tarnishing properties, which add a unique patina over time. This level of detail and quality is rarely found at this price point for an in-house movement. The caliber offers hours, minutes, and seconds displays, along with a power reserve indicator, balance wheel stop, and a patented quick-set date module.
Strap
The Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé comes with a handmade black calf leather strap paired with a 316L stainless steel folding clasp. Alternatively, an optional rubber strap is available, offering water resistance, UV resistance, and durability. Personally, I found the leather strap somewhat stiff and less pliable than expected.
What is the price of the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé?
The Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé is priced at 21,500 CHF or 86,425 AED (excluding VAT). While not limited in production, its hand-assembled nature inherently restricts the number of pieces produced.
Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé: A discreet watch with dual personalities
The Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé is a fascinating timepiece, both in its construction and design. This model stays true to the brand’s philosophy: offering discreet timepieces designed for collectors that won’t be seen on every wrist. In this sense, the brand succeeds, delivering a minimalist aesthetic, excellent craftsmanship, and an in-house movement. It’s only when you try a Zeitwinkel watch that you appreciate the passion behind the product, created by three individuals who design watches not only for themselves but for like-minded enthusiasts.
By focusing its limited resources on its products, Zeitwinkel stands out for its craftsmanship, undeniable specifications, and relatively accessible pricing. This strategy, followed since its inception in 2006, is sure to resonate with purists seeking something unique.
As for me, I appreciate this watch on many levels but would have preferred its attributes in a smaller diameter for everyday wear. That said, Zeitwinkel remains one of the few brands to hand-assemble its watches using solely regional components, an aspect that deserves recognition.
A special thank you to Albert Edelmann, who introduced me to the world of Zeitwinkel and showcased their various models, including this remarkable 273° Saphir Fumé. Our conversation revealed how Zeitwinkel operates against industry trends and turns this into a strength. After all, buying a watch as a true enthusiast is about the emotional connection to the timepiece, not seeking external validation.
Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé – Watch Specifications
- Brand: Zeitwinkel
- Model: 273° Saphir Fumé
- Case Material: Stainless Steel
- Dial: Dark Grey Fumé Sapphire Crystal
- Functions: Hours ; Minutes ; Small Seconds ; Date ; Power Reserve Indicator
- Movement: ZW0103, Self-Winding, 28’800vph frequency (4Hz), 49 jewels
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Water Resistance: 5 ATM
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Case Back: Sapphire
- Case Dimension: 42.5 mm (Diameter) × 13;8 mm (Thickness)
- Strap : Calfskin Leather with Stainless Steel Pin Buckle
- Availability: Not Limited
- Retail Price: CHF 21’500 (Excluding VAT)
Have you heard of this brand? Would you consider supporting a niche watchmaker to join an exclusive circle of discerning collectors? Share your thoughts on the brand and this model in the comments below.
For more information about Zeitwinkel, click here.
