Hello, today I would like to talk about one of the brands that has transformed watchmaking, giving it a new impetus and a new creative energy. It is the brand MB&F. Before introducing this variation of the MB&F LM Perpetual model released in 2023, let me introduce you to the man behind this brand, Maximilian Büsser.
Before creating MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends) in 2005, Maximilian Büsser started his professional career by joining Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1991, before taking on the challenging role of general manager at Harry Winston at the age of 31. After years of challenges, his philosophy of creativity and his way of working in complete dissonance with major brands pushed him to resign in 2005 to forge his own path.
Working alone from his apartment for almost two years before the first HM1 piece could be delivered in 2007, Maximilian Büsser managed to create a brand with a strong identity and real watchmaking creations while setting no limits to his creativity. He sees his brand as a laboratory of art and micromechanics dedicated to the design and manufacture of radical watches in small series, the result of collaboration between brilliant watchmaking professionals whose talent and human values Maximilian Büsser appreciates, as well as their way of working.
The model presented today is from the Legacy Machine collection, which was born from a reflection of its founder: “What would have happened if I had been born in 1867 instead of 1967? In the early 1900s, the first wristwatches appeared and I would have wanted to create three-dimensional machines for the wrist, but Goldorak, Star Wars, and fighter jets wouldn’t have been there to inspire me. But I have pocket watches, the Eiffel Tower, and Jules Verne, so what might my machine from the 1900s look like? It must be round and three-dimensional.”
This MB&F LM Perpetual model is one of the most revolutionary models from the MB&F brand. Launched in 2015, Maximilian and independent Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell completely reinvented one of the most traditional watch complications, the perpetual calendar. In 2016, the Legacy Machine Perpetual won the Calendar Watch Prize at the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève). Since then, it has been declined in various materials, including rose gold, platinum, white gold, titanium, yellow gold, and palladium. In 2023, it takes on a new variation: the LM Perpetual Stainless Steel, which features a beautiful salmon-colored dial.
What are the features of the MB&F LM Perpetual Stainless Steel?
Case
The MB&F LM Perpetual Stainless Steel features a stainless steel case with a diameter of 44 mm and an impressive thickness of 17.5 mm. Water-resistant to 30 meters, this case also inherits the ergonomic corrector pushers first seen on the LM Perpetual EVO editions. The domed sapphire crystal highlights the three-dimensional architecture of the movement. It should be noted that this piece is a feat that was difficult to achieve in a smaller case, making it, in my opinion, a very large watch that is not the most wrist-friendly.
Dial
The MB&F LM Perpetual Stainless Steel is adorned with an openworked dial with a stunning salmon-colored plate. The entire complication and the suspended balance are revealed. The mechanics are perfectly harmonious and, thanks to a remarkable technical subterfuge, the balance wheel hovering above is connected to the escapement located at the back of the movement. An innovative system, specially developed for the LM Perpetual, allows the sub-dials to “float” above the movement without any visible attachments. Skeletonized, they rest on invisible studs, which would be impossible to place in traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms as they would block the movement of the grand lever.
Movement
The MB&F LM Perpetual Stainless Steel houses a manually wound movement, beautifully finished by hand in the style of the 19th century, highlighting craftsmanship with hand-engraved details. This in-house manual winding caliber has a power reserve of 72 hours thanks to a double barrel and beats at 18,000 vph.
The perpetual calendar is one of the great traditional complications. However, traditional models have some drawbacks: accidental date jumps, relatively frequent damage if adjustments are made when the date change is in progress, and compromises related to mounting modules on base movements.
The LM Perpetual features a fully integrated 581-component caliber with a revolutionary system for calculating the number of days in each month. Aesthetically, this perpetual calendar reinterprets the traditional design holistically, presenting the complication as a whole, without resorting to a dial, all topped with an impressive suspended balance.
The specific fully integrated movement for the Legacy Machine Perpetual was designed from scratch for risk-free use: no more skipped dates or jammed gears, and with corrector pushers that automatically deactivate, no more problems with calendar changes.
The mechanical processor of the Legacy Machine Perpetual relies on a series of superimposed discs, which defaults to the 28-day month and adds the necessary additional days if required. This allows for the exact number of days for each month without a quick advance and without skipping unnecessary days. Moreover, while the traditional perpetual calendar involves scrolling through 47 months to correct the leap year, the LM Perpetual has a specific pusher to adjust it instantly.
Strap
The MB&F LM Perpetual Stainless Steel comes with a brown alligator strap with a stainless steel deployant buckle.
How much does the MB&F LM Perpetual Stainless Steel?
The MB&F LM Perpetual Stainless Steel is not a limited production model and is available at the price of 164,000 CHF (excluding taxes) or 172,000 EUR (excluding taxes).
MB&F LM Perpetual Stainless Steel: A Revolutionary Perpetual Calendar
The MB&F LM Perpetual Stainless Steel is undoubtedly the most beautiful and ingenious perpetual calendar I have encountered in a watch. I love that each new creation from the MB&F brand introduces a unique creative universe. I appreciate that, in addition to being exceptional quality watches, people adhere to a non-conformist vision, as if buying an MB&F means proclaiming to the world that creative madness gives us a less boring and pessimistic view of life. Thank you to the MAD Gallery in Dubai for opening its doors to me to discover a place that is worth a visit. Special thanks to Salaheddine for this passionate exchange.
MB&F LM Perpetual Stainless Steel – Watch Specifications
- Brand: MB&F
- Model: Legacy Machine Perpetual
- Case Material: Stainless Steel
- Dial: Openworked with salmon-coloured base
- Functions: Hours, Minutes ; Day ; Date ; Month ; Retrograde Leap Year ; Power Reserve Indicator
- Movement: Stephen McDonnell Movement, Manual-winding, 18’000vph frequency (2,5Hz), 31 jewels and 581 parts
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Water Resistance: 3 ATM
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Caseback: Sapphire
- Case Dimension: 44 mm (Diameter) × 17.5 mm (Thickness)
- Strap: Hand-stitched Brown Alligator Strap with a Stainless Steel Folding Buckle
- Availability: Not Limited
- Retail Price: CHF 164,000 (Excluding VAT)
What do you think of this ingenious mechanism? Should it be integrated by other brands in the industry? I look forward to your insights and opinions in the comments section.
For more information about MB&F, click here.
