Today, I’m excited to introduce a brand that holds a special place in my heart: Urwerk. Why is this brand so special, you ask? It was the first independent watchmaker I ever experienced in person, over three years ago. Before diving into the stunning piece unveiled at Dubai Watch Week 2023, let’s explore the fascinating story behind this family-driven, avant-garde brand.
Urwerk SA was founded in 1997 by Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, two individuals with contrasting yet complementary backgrounds. Together, they created a brand that pushes the boundaries of haute horlogerie, crafting timepieces that merge bold designs with cutting-edge technology. Based in Geneva, Urwerk is celebrated for its complex satellite time displays, breaking free from traditional watchmaking conventions with futuristic technology, sculptural designs, and innovative complications.
Born into a family of watchmakers, Felix was immersed in horology from a young age. Even before graduating with distinction from Schaffhausen’s watchmaking school, his world revolved around intricate complications such as perpetual calendars, tourbillons, and minute repeaters. Influenced by his father’s love for restoring vintage timepieces, Felix found himself drawn to the rhythmic tick-tock of watches. He further honed his skills under the legendary Svend Andersen, specializing in restoring complicated timepieces.
Martin Frei, Felix’s creative counterpart, is an artist and designer with a background in graphic design from Zurich’s School of Visual Arts. He later earned a Bachelor’s in Art from Hochschule für Gestaltung und Kunst in Lucerne. Inspired by his father’s passion for astronomy, Martin’s work focuses on space and time. When he met Felix at a gathering, their shared fascination with redefining time led to hours of brainstorming, laying the foundation for Urwerk.
From 1995, Felix and Martin envisioned a different kind of watchmaking—one that deviated from conventional designs. Drawing inspiration from the Campanus brothers’ 1652 night clock, they began crafting watches with unique time displays and unconventional case shapes. These creations often included a “control board” on the case back, featuring a regulation screw as a nod to Abraham-Louis Breguet’s innovations. By 2003, Urwerk solidified its reputation with nearly exposed mechanisms and bold, boundary-pushing designs.
The brand’s name is rooted in history: the ancient Mesopotamian city of Ur, where the concept of time was first quantified 6,000 years ago. In German, “ur” means origin, while “werk” signifies craftsmanship, innovation, and creation—an homage to the relentless evolution of watchmaking.
The Urwerk UR-230 Eagle is the latest addition to the brand’s lineup, showcasing an iconic satellite display with wandering hours and a retrograde minute hand. This high-tech redesign combines striking aesthetics with technical brilliance. Let’s examine its features in detail.
Table of Contents – Urwerk UR-230 Eagle
What Are the Features of the Urwerk UR-230 Eagle?
Case
The UR-230 Eagle features a complex semi-savonnette case in CTP carbon, offering water resistance up to 3 ATM. Its mobile cover protects the sapphire crystal and lifts 90 degrees to reveal the full satellite system. Lightweight yet rigid, the carbon layers are fused under high pressure and heat, creating a unique geometric pattern. The titanium DLC-coated case back adds durability and hypoallergenic comfort. Measuring 44.8 mm wide, 18.4 mm thick, and 53.5 mm lug-to-lug, the aerodynamic design resembles an attacking eagle, making it both visually striking and comfortable.
Dial
Rather than a traditional dial, the UR-230 Eagle displays time via a rotating satellite complication. Three rotating arms carry hour blocks, each with four numerals, which sweep across a 120-degree arc. These blocks nestle into a 3D retrograde minute hand. At the end of its 60-minute journey, the hand snaps back to zero to pick up the next hour. The protective carbon cover ensures visibility and offers a more extensive view of the mechanism when lifted.
Movement
At its heart lies the UR-7.30 caliber, a self-contained and hermetically sealed movement operating at 4 Hz with a 48-hour power reserve. This hybrid caliber integrates automatic and manual winding options, safeguarded by dual turbines and an adjustable “air brake” that modulates winding efficiency. The dual-turbine system enhances durability by reducing external shock impacts and optimizing airflow for the winding mechanism. These features are accessible via two indicators at 11 and 1 o’clock beneath the carbon cover.
Strap
The UR-230 Eagle comes with a vulcarbonized rubber strap featuring a DLC-coated black buckle and Velcro closure. The strap integrates seamlessly with the watch’s futuristic design, offering both comfort and durability.
What Is the Price of the Urwerk UR-230 Eagle?
This limited edition of 35 pieces is priced at CHF 180,000, equivalent to approximately AED 730,000 (excluding VAT).
Urwerk UR-230 Eagle: The Eagle Ready to Strike
The UR-230 Eagle offers a remarkable combination of lightweight construction and robust performance. It embodies both technical prowess and emotional resonance through its design. Interestingly, Urwerk’s components are manufactured in Zurich, with research and prototyping conducted in Aarau. Final assembly and headquarters are located in Geneva. Few people realize that most Urwerk movements are modified Zenith and Girard-Perregaux calibers, enhanced with in-house modules to create their unconventional displays. I’d like to extend my gratitude to Pierre and Diego for presenting this incredible model during the Milano Watch Week. You can find Urwerk timepieces at GMT (Great Master of Time), a retailer offering an impressive selection of independent brands.
Urwerk UR-230 Eagle – Watch Specifications
- Brand: Urwerk
- Model: UR-230 « Eagle »
- Case Material: Black DLC, Carbon, Titanium
- Dial: Openworked
- Functions: Hours, Minutes, Wandering hours on a satellite complication (Urwerk patent), 3D retrograde minutes hand, Aerodynamic winding regulation indication (Air Brake), Automatic winding status indication (On-Off)
- Movement: UR-7.30, developed by Urwerk, Self-Winding with Manually Wound Option, 28’800vph frequency (4 Hz), 50 jewels
- Power Reserve: 48 Hours
- Water Resistance: 3 ATM
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Case Back: Sapphire
- Case Dimension: 44.81 mm (Width) x 53.55 mm (Length) × 18.38 mm (Thickness)
- Strap: Vulcarbonised© rubber, “Kiska” reference with black DLC-treated buckle; Velcro© fastening
- Availability: Limited Production of 35 Pieces
- Retail Price: CHF 180’000 (Excluding VAT)
What do you think of this evolution from the UR-220? Are carbon cases appealing to you? Share your thoughts in the comments below.
For more information about Urwerk, click here.
