Today, I’d like to talk about a brand whose history I knew very little about until recently. It’s the eponymous brand Parmigiani Fleurier. Before presenting one of the latest releases from this watchmaking house, I’d like to introduce you to this discreet man, a true legend in horological culture.
Michel Parmigiani was born in Couvet, a village in the canton of Neuchâtel, on December 2, 1950. Of Italian descent, he knew from a young age that he wanted to work with his hands and create objects. When the time came to choose his path, he hesitated between becoming an architect or a watchmaker, ultimately choosing the latter while keeping architecture as a reference in his creations.
Michel Parmigiani studied at the watchmaking school of Val-de-Travers and then specialized in the restoration of mechanical objects that tell stories at the Technicum in La Chaux-de-Fonds. According to him, “Restoration is the art of preserving something and ensuring the longevity of a work of art.” After completing his studies, he worked in a small workshop before staying in Couvet to open his independent restoration workshop in 1976 at just 26 years old.
In 1978, a decisive encounter changed Michel Parmigiani’s career trajectory. He was approached by Madame Nicole Landolt-Sandoz, who asked if he could care for the family’s collection of automata, pocket watches, and antique clocks dating from the Renaissance to the 19th century. Until the launch of his eponymous brand, Michel Parmigiani practiced two trades: first as a restorer of pieces from the Sandoz collection, and second as a creator of watches for third parties. For example, he developed pocket watch calibers and table clock movements for prestigious clients like Chaumet, Chopard, Vacheron Constantin, and especially Breguet.
In 1995, his company Parmigiani Mesure et Art du Temps was acquired by the Sandoz Family Foundation. Encouraged by the foundation, he launched his own brand, Parmigiani Fleurier, in 1996. The inauguration, held at the Beau-Rivage Palace in Lausanne on May 29, 1996, unveiled a collection of 52 references, blending simple and complicated timepieces.
The brand’s beginnings did not stop Michel Parmigiani from pursuing other projects. He created some of the most unique table clocks and movements that have entered the annals of horological history. Exceptional pieces, patents, and innovative calibers punctuate his career—ranging from wristwatches to pocket watches, table clocks, and animated unique pieces (automata). His repertoire is vast and arguably unparalleled in the last few decades of watchmaking history.
In 1999, Parmigiani Fleurier began a vigorous journey to become a true manufacture. Under the leadership of Manufacture Vaucher Fleurier, the Parmigiani Group acquired Les Artisans Boîtiers in 2000, followed by Atokalpa and Elwin in 2001. In 2003, the brand and the manufacture underwent a structural reorganization. Although they separated, Manufacture Vaucher Fleurier continues to supply Parmigiani Fleurier. In 2005, Quadrance et Habillage was added to their portfolio.
Michel Parmigiani unveiled his first watch for the newly established Parmigiani Fleurier brand in 1996: the Toric QP Rétrograde. This piece introduced the signature godroons and detailed guilloché bezel as defining features of the brand’s aesthetic. Designed with references to classical architecture and the golden ratio, the Toric is a refined and elegant timepiece. Over the years, it has been revisited but has always retained its innate sophistication. Today, I will focus on one of the latest models in this lineage: the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante.
Table of Contents – Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante
What Are the Features of the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante?
Case
The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante features an 18-carat rose gold case with elegant proportions. It boasts clean lines, discreet pushers, and hallmark elements like the guilloché bezel and oval pushers. Originally inspired by Doric columns and toric geometry, the Toric design has remained largely consistent since its inception. Measuring 42.5 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm in thickness, this case presents itself as bold yet refined. Water-resistant to 30 meters, the case’s smooth construction adds to its sophisticated appearance.
Dial
The watch is adorned with a hand-grained dial in a rich, earthy tone. Its uniform surface is interrupted only by beveled edges that curve slightly toward the case. Using a mix of potassium bitartrate, sea salt, and silver, the solid gold dial is hand-grained with a soft brush.
The watch includes a 30-minute counter and a 12-hour counter at 3 and 9 o’clock, respectively, with a running seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Alpha hands, new to the Toric collection, are crafted in gold-plated steel, while the secondary chronograph hand is rhodium-plated for enhanced legibility. Applied beveled indices complete the harmonious transition between the central dial and the angular hour track.
Movement
Housed within is the PF361 hand-wound split-seconds chronograph movement, crafted entirely in 18-carat rose gold. First introduced in 2016 to celebrate the brand’s 20th anniversary, this high-frequency caliber beats at 5 Hz and offers a 65-hour power reserve.
The hand-polished bevels contrast beautifully with the richly brushed surfaces of the bridges, positioned at a 45-degree angle relative to the PF logo. The split-seconds function operates smoothly via two column wheels and a vertical clutch, capable of timing multiple consecutive events.
Strap
The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante is paired with a taupe alligator leather strap featuring a nubuck finish. Unlike traditional polished straps, this one is accentuated with hand-sewn stitches along its length, employing the “punto a mano” technique—a signature of fine Neapolitan tailoring.
What Is the Price of the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante?
The The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante is a limited edition of 30 pieces is available at CHF 135,000, approximately AED 550,450 (excluding VAT).
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante: An Elegant Split-Seconds Chronograph
The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante represents the pinnacle of horological art, merging technical mastery with timeless aesthetics. It embodies the vision of pushing traditional watchmaking forward while remaining true to the brand’s DNA.
Using ethically certified gold under international standards, this watch stands as a testament to Parmigiani Fleurier’s dedication to sustainability and craftsmanship. However, while the watch is impeccably crafted, I tend to associate split-seconds chronographs with sporty designs rather than elegant evening wear. Parmigiani Fleurier remains a quiet yet influential brand, often referred to as the “watchmaker’s watchmaker” for its complete mastery of production processes.
Special thanks to the Verga team in Milan, a family-run retailer, for allowing me to discover this exceptional piece during the Milano Watches Week 2024.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante – Watch Specifications
- Brand: Parmigiani Fleurier
- Reference : PFH951-2010001-300181-FR
- Model: Toric Chronograph Rattrapante
- Case Material: 18ct Rose Gold
- Dial: Natural Umber
- Functions: Hours ; Minutes ; Small Seconds ; Rattrapante Chronograph
- Movement: PF361-SLIM, Manual-Winding, 36’000vph frequency (5Hz), 35 jewels and 285 parts
- Power Reserve: 65 hours
- Water Resistance: 3 ATM
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Case Back: Sapphire
- Case Dimension: 42.5 mm (Diameter) × 14.4 mm (Thickness)
- Strap : Sand Gold Hand-Stitched Nubuck with 18ct Rose Gold Pin Buckle
- Availability: Limited Edition of 30 Pieces
- Retail Price: CHF 135’000 (Excluding VAT)
Do you prefer elegant or sporty chronographs? Share your thoughts in the comments!
For more information about Parmigiani Fleurier, click here.
