Today, I would like to talk to you about an independent watchmaker you may not yet know but who deserves to be highlighted. I am going to talk about Théo Levaltier. Before presenting one of the models he created and showcased at the Young Talent Competition 2023 edition, I will discuss his young watchmaking career, because yes, Théo is only 26 years old.
Born in Lyon, France, Théo Levaltier grew up in the Lyon region. In his childhood, he was fortunate to travel extensively and to evolve in the fascinating worlds of music, sports, and the desire to design mechanical objects. He started playing the double bass at the age of 7, to which he added years of rowing practice. He pursued his secondary studies half at school and half at the Lyon Conservatory. Since then, music has never left him, and he makes an effort to practice it (alone or in an orchestra) as often as possible. But then, where does his interest in horology come from—this art, so close to music, that advocates the rigor of manual mastery and the long training in proper dexterity, tempo, and register?
Curious and interested in nearly everything, he discovered his passion for watchmaking when he first encountered a watch. This interest quickly became an all-consuming passion when he attempted to disassemble a watch that he could not reassemble. He began a seven-year course to make it his profession. First, in 2015, he joined the Lycée d’Horlogerie Edgar Faure in Morteau to pursue a CAP (Certificat d’Aptitude Professionnelle) in 2 years, then a BMA (Brevet des Métiers d’Art) in 2 years, and a DNMADe Horlogerie—formerly the DMA (Diplôme des Métiers d’Art)—in 3 years. Once this course was completed, he could have started working, but he made a very different decision, as some of the greatest watchmakers of our time have done. In fact, he chose to gain experience in restoration by joining, in 2022, the Institut National du Patrimoine.
This very exciting curriculum, marked by internships with several independent watchmakers (including some members of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants, AHCI), also counts several notable achievements. He received the National Gold Medal at the “Un des Meilleurs Apprentis de France” competition organized by the Société Nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France in June 2017. He also received the Originality Award from the Institut Horlogerie Cartier in April 2018. He won the National First Prize at the “Avenir Métiers d’Art” competition organized by the Institut pour les Savoirs-Faire Français (INMA) in June 2019. This prize crowned his adventure with his project Uranie, a pendulum clock. It is based on the gear train of a restored Parisian movement (dating from the second half of the 19th century) to which he added an astronomical indication of the lunar phases (approximately one day error every 120 years). This pendulum takes on the overall shape of the Lyon Opera, using brass, glass, wood, and the “golden stone” reminiscent of the stone from the Monts d’Or. With this project, he wanted to link music, astronomy, and watchmaking to the theme imposed by the school (architecture): the Lyon Opera, created by Jean Nouvel (in which he performed three times), seemed a very beautiful choice. Indeed, during its construction in 1831, the architects chose to represent only seven of the eight Greek antiquity muses; the quest was therefore evident: to return Urania (the muse of astronomy) to the Opera.
It is with pleasure that I will now focus on his school watch, which he developed from its conception to its completion between 4 October 2021 and 10 June 2022. The project brief that year was to create a striking timepiece with a chiming mechanism at the hour change and an instantaneous jumping hour display. In addition to the technical constraints, the creative process had to answer a philosophical question: “What do we lack to be happy?” This project began with the idea of creating a watch featuring a jumping hour mechanism (invented by the Frenchman Blondeau), to be installed on the mechanical La Joux-Perret LJP6900 movement supplied by Arnold & Son. This project was an obène since it is the watchmaker’s favourite complication.
The module had to be original and produce an audible sound at each jumping hour, without counting, and if possible with a sound-stopping function on demand. The module also had to display the hour and minute, with the seconds display being optional. The final assembly (movement + complication) had to comply with size constraints to allow integration into a case. This complication was created to allow a simpler reading of the time than by a number shown in a window. The design of the watch is inspired by the sailing yachts and racing boats of the late 19th century, another one of his passions. The result is a form that extends from end to end and presents, at the very least, interesting characteristics. Its name, borrowed from one of Joseph Guédon’s sailing yachts (1862 – 1947), is Ariette, whose particularity was its great finesse. Now, let us move on to the presentation of this watch, which was presented at the Young Talent Competition organized by F.P. Journe with the support of The Hour Glass, luxury watchmaking ambassador for the Asia-Pacific region.
Table of Contents – Théo Levaltier Ariette
What are the features of the Théo Levaltier Ariette?
Case
The Théo Levaltier Ariette features a uniquely shaped case, finished in an alloy of bronze and aluminium with a natural, dark patina. Measuring 43 mm in diameter and 13 mm in thickness, this case has a unique characteristic. In this material, all scratches are only temporary, as it will re-accumulate patina over time. A traditional crown allows the adjustment and winding of the watch, with a start/stop selector for the chime mechanism on the left side between 8 and 9 o’clock.
It is true that this watch does not offer very comfortable wearability due to its size and thickness, but that is not the point here since it is a school watch. Nevertheless, I must note that the shape and the material used for this case remind me of the work of water on the hulls of boats and evoke a sense of exploration and travel.
Dial
The Théo Levaltier Ariette does not feature a traditional dial but offers a view of the chiming mechanism and the jumping hours via a glass hour disc with “worn” numbers created with brass particles embedded in the glass by laser marking. It is accompanied by a large central minute hand in blue, thermally treated, of course. As it stands, the watch’s legibility could be improved by using a slightly smoked glass and also a white font to contrast with the movement and the case colour.
Movement
The Théo Levaltier Ariette houses the La Joux-Perret LJP6900 automatic mechanical movement, to which Théo Levaltier added a jumping hour module, as well as a surprising hour counter. It reveals an intriguing mix of contrasts, both in terms of colours and materials. The large S-shaped bridge, for example, is made of titanium and serves as the hour hand in addition to holding various components in place. The entire system that moves the hour disc is visible in action, as is the chime complication system. Beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, this calibre offers a power reserve of 55 hours and features hand-finished details such as anglage, beveling, circular graining, and perlage. It takes about 150 components to chime this Arnold & Son calibre.
After discussions with the teaching team and the mentor, the right to operate the hour counting function was granted. This new functionality necessarily involves a second gear dedicated to regulating the chime, a triggering system, another for stopping, and finally one allowing the mechanism (now akin to an automaton) to read the time and convert it into sound. Note that the sound criteria are evaluated based on the height (force/volume of the sound), the accuracy (especially for repetitions with several chime tones tuned in thirds or even fifths), the richness (number of harmonics produced by the chime), and the duration of the sound (the longer, the better).
All around the “dial” of the watch is the gong of the chime mechanism. It is struck by the long hammer mounted in the lower part of the module. When the hour disc jumps to the full hour, this system begins to chime the numeral of the hour. Thus, at 1 o’clock, it chimes once, and at 12 o’clock, it will chime twelve times. The selector located on the left side of the case allows the chime mechanism to be set to silent mode, where it still chimes but a lever holds it against the gong. In this way, it always vibrates, allowing the exact time to be known if necessary, but it does not chime as it normally would. Quite ingenious!
Bracelet
The Théo Levaltier Ariette is supplied with a sailcloth strap from an early 20th-century racing rig, manufactured by Jean-Rousseau. This same material, used for sails in the early 1900s and still produced in the same manner, has also been used to create a unique watch pouch. It perfectly suits the nautical inspiration of the watch, with its off-white colour, canvas-like texture, and blue stitching.
What is the price of the Théo Levaltier Ariette?
As you have understood, the Théo Levaltier Ariette is a school watch and is therefore not for sale. However, Théo Levaltier is open to a project to produce a small series of this model. If you are interested, I would be delighted to put you in touch with Théo Levaltier.
Théo Levaltier Ariette: A Chiming Watch of Maritime Inspiration
The Théo Levaltier Ariette is a school watch that I have greatly enjoyed discovering, as it combines several worlds—horology, music, and the sea. Its stylistic inspirations revolve around navigation and, notably, the so-called “universal gauge” sailing yachts of the early 20th century. This project embraces a genuine approach to the challenges later encountered in a company’s design, manufacturing, subcontractor and supplier management, prototyping, adjustments and tuning, finishing, promotion, and communication, even after-sales service and, of course, design in the near future.
For him, the most beautiful profession in the world is that of a watchmaker. Today, while focused on restoration at the Institut National du Patrimoine, Théo Levaltier is fascinated by great watchmaking masters such as Harrisson, Bertoud, Janvier, Breguet, Winnerl, Lepaute, Robin, and those inspired by their work such as Daniels, Pratt, Daners, and Ditisheim. For him, having access to these timepieces is like taking distance learning courses from watchmakers who have so much to tell and teach us, even centuries later.
Nevertheless, Théo Levaltier also dreams of one day passing on a vision (in a watch, a clock, an automaton, or perhaps something else) of what 21st-century horology can be. That is what I wish for him. I would like to thank him for this encounter, which happened very naturally. Théo Levaltier is a humble person with a wealth of knowledge to share. He also allowed me to question what once fueled my passion. Meeting such atypical individuals with daring projects, where craftsmanship, know-how, and the passion for watches are taken to their extreme, is truly inspiring.
Théo Levaltier Ariette – Watch Specifications
- Brand: Théo Levaltier
- Model: Ariette
- Case Material: Bronze / Aluminium
- Dial: Openworked
- Functions: Jumping Hour, Minute
- Movement: La Joux-Perret LJP6900 + Module, Self-Winding, 28’800vph frequency (4 Hz), 25 jewels
- Power Reserve: 55 hours
- Water Resistance: 3 ATM
- Case Dimension: 43 mm (Diameter) × 13 mm (Thickness)
- Strap: Sailcloth strap from an early 20th-century racing rig, manufactured by Jean-Rousseau
- Price: Not for Sale
Do you know this watchmaker? What did you think of this school watch? Please feel free to use the comments section to share your thoughts on these questions.
I also invite you to follow Théo Levaltier on Instagram under the name @theolevaltier.
