Today, I want to talk about a brand I’ve been eyeing for a long time—and for good reason. A brand that offers unique designs you won’t find anywhere else. As you might have guessed, I’m talking about Ming. Before diving into their latest model, let me introduce you to the mastermind behind the brand: Ming Thein.
Ming Thein was born in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, to a father who was an accountant and a mother who was a midwife. His parents emigrated to Melbourne, Australia, and later to Wellington, New Zealand, before finally settling in London. Ming Thein was a challenging child, but education proved to be the solution. To cut a long story short, he finished high school at the age of 12, started university at 13, and earned a degree in physics from Oxford by the time he was 16.
Before founding his watch brand, Ming Thein developed a deep interest in design, engineering, and watches while pursuing his university studies. During that time, he became active on various online forums and attended collector gatherings, which further fueled his passion. He began dismantling anything he could find to design his own watches and started photographing everything that caught his eye.
Professionally, this brilliant individual began his career in auditing and accounting before moving on to roles in finance and private equity. He occasionally stepped away to explore professional photography, eventually turning it into a full-time career. Initially, he photographed watches for numerous renowned Swiss brands, gradually transitioning to other subjects to tell stories about companies, projects, or products. However, photographing watches started to dilute his passion for them. Six years after committing fully to photography, he joined the advisory boards of Hasselblad and DJI while continuing a scaled-back photography portfolio and engaging in watch-related projects.
In 2014, returning from a watch fair with friends, a long discussion on the plane led to the idea of creating a brand. By that time, access to suppliers and customers had become far more open, thanks to the internet, and many large brands had become overly ambitious in pricing. This conversation gave birth to Ming with a simple mission: “We want to make watches that excite us and, in our view, offer excellent value.” Alongside four co-founders (K.M. Chan, Y.F. Chek, M. Bosse, and P. Rajsingh), Ming Thein embarked on a three-year journey in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, to unveil their first model, the Ming 17.01, in August 2017.
Drawing inspiration from a broad spectrum of sources—art, architecture, nature, and industrial design—Ming aims to challenge traditional Swiss watchmaking conventions and carve a new path for innovation and creativity. Each model is defined by essential and immutable characteristics: strong symmetry, flared lugs, curved strap ends, distinct hour and minute hands, and elements that create visual layering so that the watches appear different under varying lighting conditions. Other signature features include a distinctive luminous identity, ergonomic crowns, and exceptional balance and wearing comfort. Ming operates from facilities in La Chaux-de-Fonds and Kuala Lumpur. While assembly and production take place in Switzerland, engineering and quality control for some models are handled in Malaysia.
Dedicated to refined aesthetics, innovative materials, advanced mechanics, and engineering, Ming launched its Special Projects Cave in 2021. This initiative allows clients to participate in experimental watches focusing on developing specific new technologies. The new Ming 20.01 Series 3, part of the Special Projects Cave, is a stunning example, and I am thrilled to present it to you.
What Are the Features of the Ming 20.01 Series 3?
Case
The Ming 20.01 Series 3 features a bi-material case made of 18-carat 5N Rose Gold and DLC-treated Titanium. The polished and brushed bezel, “flying blade” lugs, case back, chronograph pushers, and crown are crafted from Rose Gold, while the case body is constructed from DLC-coated Grade 5 Titanium. This combination represents a perfect blend of traditional and modern elements, with the technical Black Titanium contrasting beautifully with the classic elegance of Rose Gold.
Water-resistant to 5 ATM, the case is composed of 34 individual components and measures 41.5 mm in diameter with a thickness of 14.2 mm. Its short lugs ensure a perfect fit on the wrist, making it exceptionally comfortable to wear.
Dial
The Ming 20.01 Series 3 boasts a groundbreaking topographic dial made from 1.3 mm thick borosilicate glass. Featuring a radial pattern of 600 “cavities” of varying sizes and depths, these are created using high-energy lasers in collaboration with Femtoprint SA, a specialist in laser-processing micro-devices. Each cavity is painstakingly hand-filled with liquid Super-LumiNova X1, creating a striking floating effect. The hour markers, minute track, and a pulsometer scale are also coated with Super-LumiNova X1 and visible on the sapphire glass’s inner surface.
Borosilicate glass is renowned for its chemical stability and resistance to extreme temperatures. Invented by Otto Schott in the late 19th century, this material is widely used in high-precision applications, including space telescopes and satellites.
Although the dial’s execution is visually stunning, its readability could be improved, as the hour, minute, and tachymeter tracks share the same luminous color as the cavities. However, the hands—particularly the blued chronograph hands—remain highly legible.
Movement
The Ming 20.01 Series 3 houses the manually wound central chronograph movement AgenGraphe 6361 M1 by Agenhor. This highly regarded movement, also used by independent brands such as Singer Reimagined and H. Moser & Cie., is celebrated for its advanced features, including a central chronograph core, backlash-free gears, horizontal clutch, instant jumping minutes, snail-shaped reset cams, and a tactile winding-stop mechanism.
Operating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, the movement has two skeletonized barrels that provide a power reserve of 55 hours. The bridges and plates in this specific configuration are finished in 5N Rose Gold with hand-polished beveled edges.
Strap
The Ming 20.01 Series 3 comes with an anthracite goat leather strap lined with Alcantara, crafted by Jean Rousseau Paris. The strap is paired with a third-generation “flying blade” Rose Gold 5N buckle featuring a micro-adjustment system and a seamless tuck-under mechanism for a clean look.
What Is the Price of the Ming 20.01 Series 3?
Limited to just 20 pieces, the Ming 20.01 Series 3 is available exclusively on the brand’s website at a price of 43,500 CHF, approximately 186,700 AED (excluding VAT).
Ming 20.01 Series 3: A Boldly Avant-Garde Chronograph
The Ming 20.01 Series 3 is a visually rich and exceptionally comfortable watch that redefines contemporary watchmaking. While its readability may not be ideal, the combination of a spectacular dial, an innovative bi-material case, and a high-precision movement is a triumph of design. This timepiece is best suited for special occasions or collector gatherings, where discussions about innovation and exceptional mechanics can shine. Ming continually explores new horological directions with each release, while maintaining a cohesive brand identity, earning well-deserved recognition for their approach.
Noteworthy attention to detail: Ming includes a one-year WAX Shield insurance policy against theft, five years of complimentary service, and a two-year warranty for its Special Projects Cave clients to enhance ownership satisfaction. A special thanks to Ming for giving me the opportunity to experience this mesmerizing timepiece—a standout I’ll keep in mind for a future addition to my collection.
Ming 20.01 Series 3 – Watch Specifications
- Brand: Ming
- Model: 20.01 Series 3
- Case : 18k 5N Rose Gold / Grade 5 Titanium
- Dial: Front crystal with Etched and Luminous Indices and Scales
- Functions: Hours, Minutes, Central Chronograph
- Movement: Agenhor for MING AgenGraphe Cal. 6361.M1, Manual-Winding
- Power Reserve: 55 hours
- Water Resistance: 5 ATM
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Caseback: Sapphire
- Case Dimension: 41.5 mm (Diameter) × 14.2 mm (Thickness)
- Lug-to-lug : 42mm
- Strap: Anthracite goat leather with Alcantara lining, by Jean Rosseau
- Availability: Limited Edition of 20 pieces
- Retail Price: CHF 43’500 (Excluding VAT)
Do you like this design? Are you familiar with the brand? Would you consider investing in a young brand like Ming? Share your thoughts in the comments below.
For more information about Ming, click here.
