Hello, today I would like to talk about one of the brands that challenges the pre-established conformity of the Watchmaking Industry. It is the brand H. Moser & Cie. Before presenting one of their new releases showcased at the Watches & Wonders 2024 salon, let me introduce you to its rich history.
Heinrich Moser, the founder of the brand, was the son and grandson of watchmakers. He was born in Schaffhausen (Switzerland) in 1805. After an apprenticeship with his father Erhard Moser, he continued his training as a Master Watchmaker in Le Locle. He quickly gained attention for his talent and received offers to work in Rome and Paris.
But it was in Saint Petersburg that he settled in 1827. The following year, he launched H. Moser & Co. which acquired a reputation for quality, elegance, and reliability with exceptional manufacture movements. To reinforce this image, he opened his own manufacture in Le Locle (1829) which produced movements for his company. The success was undeniable as the brand supplied the Tsar’s court and expanded its activity to China, Persia, and Paris.
In 1848, Heinrich Moser returned to Schaffhausen. He worked to revitalize the town and built a family mansion there. His varied industrial activities led him to get involved in the industrialization of Schaffhausen, with the construction of Switzerland’s first dam coupled with hydromechanical turbines for energy production.
Upon his death, his heir, Fanny Moser, sold the company in Saint Petersburg and the manufacture in Le Locle to local directors. Amidst the October Revolution in 1917 and other events, the Saint Petersburg company was transformed into a state entity, the “Central Watch Repair Workshop” and the Le Locle manufacture became the property in 1979 of the Dixi Mechanique Group and adopted the name “Hy Moser & Cie”.
It was not until 2002 that Dr. Jürgen Lange and Heinrich Moser’s great-great-grandson, Roger Nicholas Balsiger, founded the company “Moser Schaffhausen AG” with the help of private investors. In 2005, H. Moser & Cie. was officially relaunched with the creation of a new fully integrated manufacture in Schaffhausen. In 2012, the Meylan family took over the brand and restructured it with the launch of four collections and the creation of the motto “Very Rare” to highlight craftsmanship and small-scale art.
Unveiled for Watches & Wonders 2024, this model embraces the vision of creating watches that combine aesthetic simplicity with mechanical complexity. Indeed, H. Moser & Cie’s aim is to offer watches that stand out, capable of attracting attention and admiration. The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green is the first in the Pioneer collection to feature a concept dial, without appliques or logos, giving it a highly prized minimalist aesthetic. Now, let’s look at the watch.
What are the features of the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green?
Case
The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green features a Stainless Steel case measuring 42.8 mm in diameter and a substantial 14.2 mm thickness including the domed glass. For added practicality, the screw-down crown, adorned with an M logo, ensures water resistance up to 120 meters, making it suitable for daily use. Mainly brushed with cutouts along the case middle and featuring a ribbed pattern, this case has a lug width of 22 mm and offers comfort with its ergonomic design, though it is a bit too large for my wrist.
Dial
The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green is adorned with a vibrant and zesty fumé green dial that breaks the codes of high watchmaking. With its captivating smoked and sunburst gradient ranging from bright yellow-green tones at the center to deeper green hues at the edges, this original dial brings a smile. To enhance it all, it features leaf-shaped hands filled with Super-LumiNova®, as well as its inner flange, to illuminate and display the time in the dark. True to the Concept design with the removal of the minute track, indexes, and logos, this dial embodies minimalist elegance, focusing solely on its breathtaking color transition.
Movement
The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green houses the in-house developed and produced HMC 201 movement, an evolution of the automatic HMC 200 caliber. With exceptional precision and a 3-day power reserve, this caliber beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations/hour (3Hz). Notable features of this movement include the signature H. Moser double stripes, newly skeletonized bridges, and the transparent rotor, which provides an unobstructed view of the internal mechanism with contrasting finishing techniques, as well as a bi-directional winding system and an original Straumann Hairspring®.
Strap
The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green offers great versatility with an engraved steel pin buckle. For a casual look, it is offered with a rubber strap but is also available on a steel bracelet, hand-stitched alligator leather, or textile. Personally, I think the textile strap would be the most suitable, as I am not a big fan of rubber straps.
How much does the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green?
The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green is not a limited model and is offered at a price of CHF 14,500 (excluding VAT).
H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green: A captivating and vibrant watch
The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green is sure to attract attention for how it brilliantly combines the polarizing worlds of sport, elegance, and cool. With its captivating design and vibrant color, this model stands out for its modern spirit. The result is beautifully controversial, perhaps as the brand intended, as the athletic, almost brutal and adventure-ready case is paired with a very funky colored dial. Whether for a business meeting, an evening out, or even an afternoon at the beach club, this watch is suitable for all occasions. I would like to thank Cédric for his great friendliness and for presenting this piece, perfect for summer.
H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green – Watch Specifications
- Brand: H. Moser & Cie.
- Reference: 3201-1204
- Model: Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green
- Case Material: Stainless Steel
- Dial: Citrus Green Fumé with Sunburst Pattern
- Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds
- Movement: HMC 201, Self-Winding, 21’600vph frequency (3Hz)
- Power Reserve: 3 Days
- Water Resistance: 12 ATM
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Caseback: Sapphire
- Case Dimension: 42.8 mm (Diameter) × 14.2 mm (Thickness)
- Strap: Blue Rubber with Steel Ardillon Buckle
- Retail Price: CHF 14’500 (Excluding VAT)
What do you think of colored dials in watchmaking? A new trend that other watch brands should consider more? I eagerly await your thoughts on this topic.
For more information about H. Moser & Cie., click here.
