Today, I would like to introduce you to a watchmaker, an AHCI (Académie des Horlogers Indépendants) member since April 2024, now based in Sainte-Croix, Switzerland, passionate about architecture and music. As you may have guessed, I’m speaking about a highly talented watchmaker, Sylvain Pinaud. Before presenting his second model, which has gained strong traction among collectors, let me outline his remarkably complete journey.
Born to parents who ran a small workshop repairing clocks and watches near Grenoble, France, Sylvain Pinaud spent his early years tinkering with old alarm clocks before servicing watches in the family workshop. Drawn to mechanics from the start, at just 16 he left home to pursue a four-year vocational baccalaureate in watchmaking at Lycée Edgar Faure in Morteau. Graduating in 1998 at age 20, over the next twenty years he explored every facet of the craft, beginning with two years at Gilbert Petit‑Jean, a movement assembler where he specialised in after‑sales service.
After a one-year break travelling the world, he joined the vast «Watchland» campus of Franck Muller, dedicating four years there. He learned “so much”, specialising in haute complications—perpetual calendars and tourbillons—while also managing after‑sales service.
The next phase would prove decisive. Between 2004 and 2009, he worked in Sainte‑Croix alongside Dominique Mouret, renowned restorer of antique horology. Fully immersed in mechanical horology’s history, he developed deep expertise by restoring museum‑grade pieces from legendary makers such as Abraham‑Louis Breguet, Ferdinand Berthoud and Antide Janvier. There, he became fascinated by every dimension of the craft: history, mechanics, artistry, science.
His final formative chapter began in 2009, when he joined the former THA workshop—an epicenter of mechanical horology’s renaissance in Sainte‑Croix, featuring François‑Paul Journe, Denis Flageollet, Vianney Halter and others—then acquired by Carl F. Bucherer. He worked on prototypes, including a peripheral rotor automatic movement, developed additional plates, and refined systems, completing his training as a fully rounded watchmaker. At the end of 2016, the company relocated; he stayed in Sainte‑Croix and, after two decades covering every aspect of watchmaking, he crossed the threshold into independence.
In 2018, he sold his house to become independent and launch his own workshop. A watchmaking friend, Luc Monnet, introduced him to the Meilleur Ouvrier de France competition, held every four years. The 2019 edition required creating a monopusher chronograph with a 45‑minute counter, using the ETA Unitas 6497 gear train and escapement. He spent a year building this chronograph and became a laureate of this prestigious French award.
Since then, he’s practised watchmaking true to his values—his independent workshop is the culmination of his creative and technical journey. Working on a second project, a reinterpretation of the three‑hand watch, he released in 2022 the Sylvain Pinaud Origine, which won the GPHG 2022 Revelation Award. He conceived this watch through its design first, then its mechanics, inheriting aesthetic codes from his first model—semi‑skeleton dial, industrial yet sober style. Pinaud’s work is resolutely modern in appearance, yet traditional in craftsmanship. Now, let’s explore this piece in detail.
Table of Contents – Sylvain Pinaud Origine
What are the features of the Sylvain Pinaud Origine?
Case
The Sylvain Pinaud Origine features a fully polished stainless steel case, water-resistant to 3 ATM, with a clean and minimalist design. Measuring 40 mm in diameter and 11 mm thick, the seemingly simple case was produced by the Comblémine company and sits comfortably on the wrist. Its shape—with a domed bezel and wide lugs—makes the watch appear slightly larger than it actually is.
Dial
The Sylvain Pinaud Origine is fitted with a dial composed of complex, multi-layered shades, offering sharp contrasts and outstanding finishing for perfect legibility. The small seconds are positioned at 10 o’clock, while the time is displayed on a raised sub-dial at 2 o’clock. A recurring circular motif appears throughout the dial, from the refined outlines of the interlocked sub-dials to the exposed mechanics of the 13.2 mm Phillips balance spring, visible from the dial side at six o’clock.
To make this creation truly unique, special attention has been given to the blue hues that flow throughout the watch. This contrast is enhanced by the polished surfaces of the balance bridge and sub-dials and the matte surface of the base plate, which draws the eye to the foreground. The shape of the bridges recalls 18th- and 19th-century French watchmaking, where watches often featured front-mounted escapements and a blend of straight lines and circular forms.
Although relatively simple and compact compared to the size of the movement, the dial is composed of multiple layers, lending it both depth and texture. The hour ring and seconds scale are both elevated. While less complex than the mechanical construction, the dial is also of high quality and is produced by Comblémine. Personally, I find the layout very pleasing to the eye, and the various shades of blue offer both clarity and contrast.
Mouvement
Inside the Sylvain Pinaud Origine beats a hand-wound movement featuring an in-house gear train and Swiss lever escapement that clearly elevates this timepiece beyond the realm of simplicity. Oscillating at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offering 55 hours of power reserve, the movement is designed for precision. It incorporates a free-sprung balance and a Phillips terminal curve for precise regulation. Additionally, when the crown is pulled out, the balance is halted by a blocking lever, allowing for accurate time setting via a sturdy, keyless works mechanism.
Aside from relocating the balance and escapement to the front of the watch, the movement’s layout is traditional, with an English-style three-quarter plate, large barrel bridge, and finger bridges for the gear train. Finished with sandblasted frosting, the bridges are grained or black-polished and feature sharp internal angles. The wheels are circular‑grained or sunray‑finished, and their spokes are beveled. The two‑part ratchet wheel has a polished hub, a more intricate construction than a conventional one-piece wheel. Additionally, all jewel and screw sinks are polished—a rarity these days.
Strap
The Sylvain Pinaud Origine is fitted with a black alligator leather strap and a fully polished steel pin buckle engraved with the brand’s logo.
What is the price of the Sylvain Pinaud Origine?
The Sylvain Pinaud Origine is not limited by reference number but by production volume. Only around 12 pieces are crafted each year. It starts at CHF 65,000 (excluding VAT), and custom aesthetic variations can be requested upon order.
Sylvain Pinaud Origine: an elegant and timeless timepiece
The Sylvain Pinaud Origine is a watch at the intersection of art and science. The name “Origine” not only refers to Pinaud’s inspiration from horology’s early days but also nods to his childhood spent with his father in their hometown. He wanted to remember his roots—his origins—and the idea that “everyone has their own origin story.”
I truly appreciated this piece. It strikes a perfect balance between architectural harmony and technical excellence while remaining perfectly wearable on a daily basis. With an asymmetrical dial that gives space to the regulating organ at 6 o’clock, the Origine combines the best of old and new to deliver a visually captivating timepiece. In this blue configuration, the watch is simply stunning. Naturally, to ensure each piece is unique, the materials and finishes can be customised on request.
Watchmaking is his form of expression, and I would like to warmly thank Sylvain Pinaud for his approachability during the AHCI 2025 event. A remarkably humble man who has clearly found his zone of genius, gradually mastering every facet of the craft to deliver a second timepiece that’s both understated and superbly executed. I can’t wait to see what he has in store next.
Sylvain Pinaud Origine – Watch Specifications
- Brand: Sylvain Pinaud
- Model: Origine
- Case Material: Stainless Steel
- Dial: Openworked and silvered
- Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds
- Movement: In-House, Manual -Winding, 21’600vph frequency (3Hz), 22 jewels and parts
- Power Reserve: 55 Hours
- Water Resistance: 3 ATM
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Caseback: Sapphire
- Case Dimension: 40 mm × 11 mm
- Strap: Black Alligator with Stainless Steel Pin Buckle
- Retail Price: 65’000 CHF (excluding VAT)
Had you heard of Sylvain Pinaud before? What do you think of this piece? Share your thoughts in the comments.
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